Passports + Pencil Shavings: food

Travel Guide: Toronto

I recently returned from my first girls getaway with my pal Liz and we had the best time! After a short pitstop in Niagara Falls, we drove up to the lovely city of Toronto, and let me tell you- our neighbors to the north have got it good. From grade-A museums, to all wonders of culinary delights, to the loveliest of little neighborhoods, Canada did not disappoint.

We stayed in a great Airbnb in the Garden District, which was very centrally located with walking distance restaurants and sightseeing, as well as easily accessible by public transit to everything we'd planned on visiting. See below for the breakdown of what we did while we were there :)

Eat:
Hair of the Dog
Butter. Chicken. Grilled. Cheese. Try it. Love it. Thank me later.

Wish Cafe
We came here for brunch on our way to the Royal Ontario Museum which is just a short walk away. While the smallness of it can mean a bit of a wait on the weekends, I found it cozy and reminiscent of cafes in NY and Paris. The cute bar in front makes for a nice spot to enjoy a pre-brunch cocktail while you await your table.

Pai
Delicious, authentic Thai cuisine in a charming basement space in the Financial District.

Smoke's Poutinerie/Poutini's House of Poutine
It would be an absolutely sin to leave Canada without having poutine at least once. We went to Smoke's while we were in Niagara (it's a chain) and then checked out Poutini's after a long walk down Queen Street West. Both were excellent. Definitely arrive with an empty stomach.

Sleep:
The Drake Hotel
I love a good art hotel, and The Drake on Queen Street West (seriously, this stretch of downtown is amazing) does not disappoint. Filled to the brim with a colorful collection of modern art, this lodging option also hosts concerts and other cultural happenings.

See:
Casa Loma
This historic site was once a private residence for financier Sir Henry Mill Pellatt, and then a hotel for two years in the 1920s. The castle now serves as a museum and local landmark, as well as being a popular venue for weddings (there was even one happening while we were there!) and films.

Royal Ontario Museum
As the largest museum in Canada, ROM does not disappoint; housing all manor of natural history exhibits from dinos to dieties to art deco. We were especially enamored with the hall of gems and minerals, shown below.

Ripley's Aquarium
Absolutely loved the jellies exhibit, and the moving walkway through the shark tank is pretty dope.

Play:
Queen Street West
Vogue named Queen Street West as one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world, and I'd dare anyone who's visited to disagree. Check out Graffiti Alley (but don't miss the dozens of other murals and pieces down various other side streets as well), Brika for cute paper goods and accessories, and the numerous galleries and modern furniture stores that will make you want to take up residence. Head a bit north up Ossington Ave. to Bang Bang Ice Cream for amazing and very Instagram-able ice cream sandwiches, and if you don't mind waiting 40 minutes- egg waffle cones as well.

Kensington Market
A maze of actual fruit, vegetable, and fish markets, as well as funky shops and sidewalk stands with cheap gifts and chotchkies. As for the boutiques, I loved Good Egg, which specializes in cookbooks and kitchen wear, but also has a great collection of kids and baby goods, as well as fun art prints and other housewares.

Travel Guide: New Orleans

I've been to the magical city of New Orleans many times over the years, but this was the first time I visited over Christmas. Unsurprisingly, it was just as magnificent as ever, if not more so. It's always been one of my most favorite cities and each time I go is a different experience. Read on to see what I did while there.

Eat:
Copeland's Cheesecake Bistro
Located on St. Charles Ave. in Central City, Copeland's was a superb experience and made for a great first meal in NOLA. The crawfish ravioli was just magnificent. Creamy, flavorful, and not too spicy. I'm still dreaming about it...

Milkfish
If you get tired of gumbo and po' boys (which really though, how could you?), head to Milkfish on Carrollton Ave in Mid-City. This Philippine spot offers authentic fare in a low-key and friendly environment. The Bicol Express was fantastic, and if you've never had Philippine food, definitely start with an order of Lumpia.

Melba's
I found this spot around the corner from our Airbnb the afternoon I got in. A little overpriced for a neighborhood spot, but still excellent shrimp po' boys!

Sleep:
Aibnb
During our visit we stayed in a little shared apartment in the St. Roch neighborhood. It worked fine for us, but had I more to spend on lodging, I'd love to stay in this cute spot on Treme. The owner actually has two lovely apartments available. Check them out!

See:
New Orleans Museum of Art
Located in City Park, the NOMA is the city's oldest fine arts museum. Their permanent collection has a substantial selection of American artists, including, Cassatt, O'Keeffe, and one of my very favorites- Cornell. They're lucky enough to have an entire gallery dedicated to 21 donated works of the late assemblage artist.

Ogden Museum of Southern Art
As the name implies, the Ogden specializes in contemporary artists local to the region. While I was there, the Education Gallery featured collaborative works by students from the Lafayette Academy Charter School with artist Jackie Inglefield. The work (a detail of which can be seen above), created from recycled materials, evoked the spirit and colors of the city of New Orleans and I fell completely in love. Probably took a few too many snapchats of the amazing sculptures.

Garden District
I could honestly wander the historic streets of the Garden District for hours checking out all the dreamy real estate and fantasizing about my new life as a southern belle. Seriously- just try not to fall in love. I dare you.

Play:
Frenchman Street
When the witching hour strikes, skip Bourbon Street (especially if you've been before) and head to Frenchman Street instead. We heard some of the most amazing live, local bands, and it felt so much more authentic and chill than Bourbon. Our favorite spots were Blue Nile and Maison, the later of which my man and I went to two nights in a row because it was so good. Not to mention the late night street eats (Best. Mac and cheese. Of. My. LIFE.) and the Frenchman Art Market, which we happened upon a little before midnight on Christmas eve. It's open from 7pm-1am Thursday through Sunday, and when you need a rest from all your drinking and shopping (always a good combo), take a seat at one of the outdoor living rooms.

Hattie Sparks
I stumbled upon this darling shop (seen above) after spending the day working at Pulp & Grind down the street and I'm so glad to have found it. Specializing in unique, locally sourced items, the shop carries everything from screen printed cards to party dresses to sparkly home goods. The best part? It's also woman-owned and operated.

Cliché but Iconic:
Café du Monde
It would be a sin to visit New Orleans without stopping at Café du Monde for beignets and café au last at least once. You'll most likely have to wait for a table, but trust that it will be more than worth it. And yes- you will leave covered in powdered sugar. That's half the fun! (Stop at Aunt Sally's around the corner and pick up some famous pralines afterwards if you still have a sweet tooth).

Marie Laveau's House of Voodoo
One of my favorite memories of my very first trip to NOLA (I think I was 8 maybe?) is buying a tiny voodoo doll from this famous haunt. Sure, it might not be the most authentic, but I guarantee you will not find a shop like this in any other city. Pick up some sage, a mojo bag, or a new set of tarot cards. Just remember- no pictures allowed inside!

{all photos are my own}

Pumpkin Spice Smoothie

We are definitely living in the age of pumpkin obsession, but unlike most other basic-b*tch tendencies, this is one I fully support. You really can't deny the deliciousness of all things pumpkin, and all the pumpkin infused foods just make fall a tad bit more enjoyable. Here's a simple recipe I whipped up for a pumpkin spice smoothie, sure to keep you full and your pumpkin cravings satisfied. That is, of course, until you pass by a Starbucks and get a sudden hankering for a cream cheese pumpkin spice muffin.

1 medium frozen banana, cut into pieces
1/2 cup pumpkin puree
1/2 cup Greek yogurt (plain or vanilla)
1/4 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
dash of cinnamon and sugar

Mix well in blender and enjoy! Revel in your basicness.